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St. Pauls’s Cathedral

May 2nd, 2007 by Kinky Boots

Hello again, another instalment of my sightseeing adventures in Olde London Towne!

St Paul's Cathedral in LondonThe first church on this spot was erected in 604 AD, just 8 short years after the first Christian mission under St. Augustine landed in Kent. This wooden church was established by King Ethelbert of Kent as home to the first bishop of the East Saxons, Mellitus.

That first church was destroyed by fire and rebuilt by St. Erkenwald, then bishop, in 675-85. Fire was not the only danger faced by buildings in those dark centuries of Anglo-Saxon England - the Vikings destroyed the second St. Paul’s in 962 during on of their periodic invasions.

Once again, fire destroyed the church in 1087. The new Norman building, now called Old St. Paul’s, took over 150 years to complete, the final touches being applied in 1240. Well, not quite final touches - a new Gothic choir was added by 1313, making St. Paul’s the third longest church in Europe at 596 feet.The following year the spire was completed. At 489 feet it was the tallest in all Europe.

In the Tudor period an open-air pulpit called Paul’s Cross was established by the south wall of St. Paul’s. There crowds gathered to hear rabble-rousing Protestant sermons. In 1549 the preachers incited a mob to sack the cathedral itself. They rampaged through the interior, destroying the high altar and ravaging the tombs, wall-hangings, and tombs.

St. Paul’s bad luck continued. The spire was struck by lightning (not too surprising, considering how it towered over the city). The cathedral became a centre of trade, with merchants selling their wares in the nave of the church iteslf. Architect Inigo Jones was called in to resurrect the decaying building, but his efforts, hampered by lack of funds, only delayed the inevitable.

During the English Civil War, Parliamentary troops commandeered the cathedral and used the nave as cavalry barracks. They broke up the scaffolding and sold the material.

paul_cathedral.jpgThe fortunes of Old St. Paul’s seemed to take a turn for the better with the Restoration of the Monarchy in 1660. Charles II appointed a young architect named Christopher Wren to undertake major repairs to the building. Wren had only begun his work when final calamity struck. On September 4, 1666, fire broke out in a bakehouse in Pudding Lane. Fanned by a fierce wind, the fire spread through the close-packed streets of London, destroying everything in its path. For four days the fire raged, and when the smoke finally cleared, Old St. Paul’s was nothing but charred timbers and rubble.

The calamity of the Great Fire of London proved the opportunity of a lifetime for Christopher Wren, and the young architect did not hesitate to seize his chance.Within days of the fire, Wren presented a visionary plan to King Charles II for turning the crowded shambles of Stuart London into a sunlight city blessed with wide avenues and open plazas. The enthusiastic Charles liked Wren’s ideas, but he lacked the money to carry them out, and impatient Londoners had already begun to rebuild along the old street patterns.

st-pauls.jpgInstead, Charles gave Wren the commission to rebuild the cities churches,including Old St. Paul’s Cathedral.To finance this rebuilding a special tax was levied on coal arriving at the port of London.
Wren’s original design for the cathedral was rejected by the church as being too modern. The second design, submitted in 1675, was a domed church in the shape of a Greek Cross. This, too, was rejected. This time the reason given was that it was too modern and too Italian (read Catholic). The scale model of this design, called the Great Model, can be viewed in the crypt of the present St. Paul’s.

Finally in 1675 Wren gave the clergy what they wanted; a traditional English church design with a long nave and spire. The king granted Wren a royal warrant approving this design with the interesting proviso that the architect was free to make “variations, rather ornamental than essential”. One can almost imagine Charles giving his favorite Wren a sly wink as this was penned.
On the strength of the Royal Warrant Wren proceeded to quietly change just about every essential element of the design the clergy thought they were getting. He got rid of three bays in the nave, did away with the spire, enlarged the dome, and raised the aisle walls.

Much of this work proceeded behind scaffolding and protected from prying eyes. By the time the furious clergy realised what Wren had done the church was too far gone to be altered. When stone was laid for the centre of the new building, stones from the Old St. Paul’s were used. Wren noticed that one of the stones was marked with the Latin inscription “resurgam”, “I shall rise again”. He had the word inscribed on the pediment of the south door, beneath a carved phoenix.

Portland stone was used for the bulk of the cathedral, and from the laying of the first stone in 1675 to the final touches in 1708, the cathedral was finished in a mere 33 years. This means that St. Paul’s, alone among English cathedrals, is the result of one man’s creative vision.Of course, that vision stretched to hiring some very good help. Master woodcarver Grinling Gibbons carved the choirstalls, and sanctuary gates were added by wrought-iron genius Jean Tijou.

And what did Wren create after 33 years of labour? In short, a masterpiece of neo-classical architecture. The triple-layered dome that crowns the cathedral is the second largest in the world. Partway up the inside of the dome is the Whispering Gallery, so named because a whisper breathed against one wall is audible against the far wall 112 feet away.

stpaulscathedral4.jpgThe interior of the Cathedral may be a shock if you are used to the bare Gothic stone of medieval British cathedrals. Ornately curved and brilliantly coloured decoration abounds, and in a symmetry that is nearly overwhelming. As a place of worship St. Paul’s may not be to everyone’s taste, but as an architectural work, St. Paul’s is a masterpiece.

stpaulscathedral2.jpgThe man behind this splendour is fittingly remembered inside “his” cathedral. A simple Latin inscription on Christopher Wren’s tomb in the cathedral Crypt translates as “Reader, if you seek his memorial, look about you”. IndeedSt. Paul’s was an inspiration to the nation during the Second World War, when much of the surrounding area was destroyed during the Blitz, pictures were shown of St. Paul’s standing steadfast, its dome wreathed in smoke and flames. It was miraculous that St. Paul’s survived such an onslaught, although not completely unscathed. A bomb demolished the High Alter, and the Crypt suffered damage as did many of the stained glass windows. These were later replaced with clear glass, which was Wren’s original intention, improving the light within the Cathedral.

Kinky sightseeing Kisses!st-pauls-sunset.jpg

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Sir Benjamin Hall’s Big Ben.

April 29th, 2007 by Kinky Boots

Hello!

250px-bigben.jpgHe’s big, and he’s always up, he’s my favourite Bell, the Big Ben!

I first saw it years ago, on a school trip to London and to be honest I didn’t remember much about it. So I decided to visit it again lately on a London walk, and I find out all sorts of curious facts and stories about it!

Did you know that London’s most famous landmark looks most spectacular at night when the clock faces are illuminated?

And did you know that the parliament is in session when a light shines above the clock face?

The name Big Ben actually refers not to the clock tower itself, but to the thirteen ton bell hung within. The bell was named after the first commissioner of works, Sir Benjamin Hall, with it’s official name being called “the great Bell”.

The Bell was cast on the 10th of April 1858, with the first chime rung in Situ on 31st may 1859.

The base of each of the clock’s faces bears a Latin inscription “Lord save our Queen Victoria I” as the Big Ben clock tower and the adjoining Westminster palace were constructed during the Victorian age. Today the building next to the tower which is, “The Palace of Westminster” houses the British Parliament sessions and tourists can even view a session of parliament for free.

big-ben.jpgDuring the second world war in 1941, an incendiary bomb destroyed the Commons chamber of the Houses of Parliament, but the clock tower remained intact and Big Ben continued to keep time and strike away the hours in London, its unique sound was broadcast to the nation and around the world.

The tower is not open to the general public but only, if you are a UK resident and with a special interest in clocks you may then arrange a visit to the top of the clock tower through their local MP.

There is a miniature reproduction in Seychelles, in the centre of Victoria, the capital, in the island of Mahe. It is called the tower of the clock.

39-steps-the-movie.jpgThe Big Ben has famously been in the movie “39 steps ” the 1978 remake of the Alfred Hitchcock 1935 classic version, where Robert Powell hangs off the Big Ben’s clock face.

Here are some more interesting facts:

Did you know that Big Ben slowed down by 5 minutes in 1945 when a flock of starlings landed on the minute hand! The tower is 96 m tall ans has 334 steps to the bell and 393 steps to the lantern room.

The Clock has 4 faces and each face has a 7m diameter, the glass in clock faces has 312 separate pieces in each, the minute hand are 4.2m long, 100 kilograms in weight, made of copper – travel a distance equal to 190 kilometres a year. The hour hands are 2.74m long, 300 kg in weight and made of gun metal.

Next time you visit my City be sure to remember to visit the Big Ben’s Tower! And to listen to it’s Bell, The Big Ben as well!!

Kinky Kisses!!

big-ben-4.jpg

Posted in General, London Sightseeing | No Comments »

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